Kyle of Lochalsh
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-> Kyle of Lochalsh
KYLE OF LOCHALSH is not particularly attractive - concrete buildings, rail junk and myriad signs of the fishing industry abound - and is ideally somewhere to pass through rather than linger in. Since the Skye road bridge was opened in 1995, traffic has little reason to stop before rumbling over the channel a mile to the west, leaving Kyle's shopkeepers bereft of the passing trade they used to enjoy. The bridge, built with private-sector money, has also sparked controversy over its high tolls.
Buses run to Kyle of Lochalsh's harbour from Glasgow via Fort William and Invergarry (3 daily; 5hr 30min-6hr 15min), and from Inverness via Invermoriston (2 daily; 2hr); there's also a summer service from Edinburgh (1 daily; 7hr 15min). Book in advance for all of them (tel 0870/550 5050). All continue at least as far as Portree on Skye. Buses also shuttle across the bridge to Kyleakin on Skye every thirty minutes or so. Trains run to Kyle of Lochalsh from Inverness (Mon-Sat 3-4; summer Sun 1-2; 2hr 30min); curving north through Achnasheen and Glen Carron, the train line is a rail enthusiast's dream, even if scenically it doesn't quite match the West Highland line to Mallaig.
Kyle's tourist office (July & Aug Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 10am-4pm; April-June, Sept & Oct Mon-Sat 9am-5pm; tel 01599/534276), on top of the small hill near the old ferry jetty, can book accommodation - a useful service as there are surprisingly few options. One of the most pleasant in the area is the Old Schoolhouse at Erbusaig, between Kyle and Plockton (tel 01599/534369; £50-60), a good-quality guest house with three reasonably priced and comfortable rooms. To eat, head for the Seagreen Restaurant and Bookshop (tel 01599/534388), on the Plockton road on the edge of town, which has a pleasant, unfussy atmosphere and serves excellent fresh seafood and vegetarian meals. The Seafood Restaurant at the train station is also recommended, if a little pricier.
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